EPIC CAPE HORN CRUISE TOUR REPORT 2024 Pre-cruise extension: 17th - 19th February Main Cruise: 19th February - 5th March Ceibas post-cruise extension: 5th - 8th March

Day 0  ARRIVAL DAY

With some of the group arriving yesterday and a few this morning we decided to head to Laguna Batuco, about 22 kilometres north-west of Santiago, just to get our eyes in on some of the wonderful birds on offer here in Chile. It’s a fabulous wetland, with large lakes, smaller lagoons, some muddy edges and plenty of reeds. We notched up 38 species in just a few hours and enjoyed a decent selection of the more regular species to be found throughout this epic trip such as Red Shoveler, White-tufted and Great Grebes, all 3 coot species, Cocoi Heron, White-faced Ibis, a single Buff-winged Cinclodes was a little surprise, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Tufted Tit-tyrant, Chilean Swallow, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Yellow-winged Blackbird and Diuca Finch. We ended this arrival day with a nice dinner and some excellent beers!

PRE-CRUISE EXTENSION DAY 1   FARELLONES & VALLE NEVADO, ANDES

Left the hotel at 7am, with the excellent Claudio Vidal and drove towards the Andes and in particular an area called the Farellones on a road which would eventually take us up to around 3000m. However, first thing this morning we birded the lower slopes seeing flocks of  Mourning Sierra-Finches and found several smaller Band-tailed Sierra-Finches, as well as a few Grey-hooded Sierra-Finches mixed in with them. It was a little slow going in the slightly cool morning air as the sun hadn’t yet risen over the looming peaks above us, but it was a very enjoyable temperature and we picked up Chilean Mockingbirds, brief Fire-eyed Diucon, many Austral Blackbirds were around, several Black-winged Ground-Doves and a Dark-bellied Cinclodes. The endemic Crag Chilia put in a close albeit brief appearance and we’d need better views tomorrow. Heading higher up we checked out some open alpine slopes and grassy flower-filled meadows where Rufous-banded Miner, Scale-throated Earthcreeper, and Buff-winged Cinclodes performed well. A close little grassy area was attracting a group of Black-chinned Siskins, and as we were watching a Grey-flanked Cinclodes appeared and yet more Black-winged Ground-Doves. As we walked down the road a family of Lesser Horned Owls in a tree next to the road gave incredible views, whilst nearby Rufous-tailed Plantcutter was only seen by a couple of the group. Across the road a female White-sided Hillstar and a Giant Hummingbird were scoped before we headed to a nearby restaurant for a fabulous lunch. The afternoon was spent up at the ski resort at Valle Nevado and this is THE place to get incredible views of Andean Condors. They were literally everywhere, flying low overhead, perched on the roofs of the skiing hotels and I cannot remember a better experience with this species from anywhere else in South America. We also enjoyed White-browed and Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrants, Mountain Caracara, lots of Greater Yellow-Finches, and a Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant. We were back at our hotel by 6pm with plenty of time to relax and shower before dinner. It had been a wonderful, if rather warm day full of great birds. And we just couldn’t wait for our big day tomorrow!

PRE-CRUISE EXTENSION DAY 2  EL YESO VALLEY, ANDES

We were on the road well before daylight rose this morning, heading east to spend the day at El Yeso, with our tour party extended by one with the arrival of Lee late last night.

We began proceedings early, making a pre-emptive stop at the base of a ravine. cast in shadow, the sun yet to penetrate over the surrounding backdrop of peaks so common a feature of El Yeso’s stunning skyline. The stop, target driven, delivering a Chilean endemic would get our day off to the best possible start. We’d designs on seeing Crag Chilia well. Hearing one call was positively received, it lurking somewhere amidst the tangled undergrowth before us. Fleeting glimpses summarily translate to everybody’s initial first, second and forthcoming views. Good enough, probably, but they felt unfulfilled and obligated to try for it longer. Sure enough, the wait was worthwhile, resulting in excellent views. Pushing deeper into the valley we made our second stop at an arid and boulder strewn area where Andean Goose and White-sided Hillstar were present.

As we pressed on, the valley's backdrop became ever grander. Gazes cast to just the most stunning of scenery and approaching the toll point a Grey-breasted Seedsnipe put on a spectacular show for us. Although not stopping from thereon in until the tracks natural conclusion, a continual process of searching the slow moving stream didn’t yield any Torrent Ducks. The parking facility we found to be surprisingly busy despite its desolate locality, with, several dozen vehicles and their noisy owners present.. I can't think of many better places in the world to rustle up an alfresco barbeque, the smells emanating from those on the go were oh so appealing! Naturally, no such notions for us as we had only one thing on our mind, which for many is the ultimate shorebird -  Diademed Sandpiper Plover! Well, the area before us was a series of narrow streams criss-crossing a very wide boulder-strewn valley floor, so we spead out and began searching. After maybe half an hour, which was just long enough for a few doubts on the likelihood of success to creep into a birders mind, Christine came up trumps and found the wee beast. Brian hollered to everyone and we came running. Well, walking quickly and awkwardly over the stones with one person finding a nice, soft boggy section to slip knee deep into!. Needless to say we had the most imperious of views, down to just 15/ 20 feet away, and prolonged too. Photos were taken, videos as well and some phonescoping ensued. It was like the birding paparazzi had descended to capture on film this undoubtedly sexy star! With high fives all round and smiling faces this was one of those moments, as a birder, that you live for. That feeling of undeniable birding ecstasy of a long hoped for species finally nailed to your life list. Job done! Throughout all of this excitement we did our best to ignore Rufous-banded and Creamy-rumped Miners flying around us, but fortunately most of us did tear our gaze away from the DSP albeit just briefly to add another couple of species to our life lists!  A picnic lunch followed, during which we had views of White-browed and Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrants and some Greater Yellow-Finches amongst others. On the journey back down through the valley we had a distant view of Andean Gull and great views of Striped Woodpecker around a small village. There was also repeated views of species such as Buff-winged Cinclodes, Austral Thrush, Yellow-rumped Siskin, Austral Blackbird, Diuca-Finch, Grey-hooded, Mourning & Plumbeous Sierra-Finches as well. This evening we would meet up with Roberta, Paul and Hazel. who would be joining us from now on.

PRE-CRUISE EXTENSION DAY 3  TO THE COAST & CRUISE DAY 1    

Our intention for this morning would necessitate a two hour drive to the coastal city of Reñaca. Our journey proceeded quickly as we drove through a dreary drizzle complete with mist as we approached the coast. On our arrival the weather abated somewhat, although many would don a coat. Come what may, it was just nice to finally get out of the van and start looking at birds. And what better way to some easy beachside birding. Within minutes we had point blank views of Seaside Cinclodes, a focal endemic. Of course the colony of Inca Terns here stole the show. They certainly do pack a visual punch and we experienced this first hand, gaining the most scintillating of close quarter views conceivable. What a treat and one that left an indelible impression on all of us. When not totally transfixed on them, casting eager gazes elsewhere revealed so much more, in short order adding seventeen Surfbirds, Blackish (six) and American Oystercatcher (eleven), Southern Lapwing(eight), Whimbrel (five), Peruvian Pelican (seventeen), Reg-legged & Neotropic Cormorants and Turkey Vultures perched on the shoreline rocks, while fertile feeding grounds offshore held Peruvian Pelicans, Peruvian Booby, countless more foraging Inca Terns, lightly interspersed with Elegant & South American Terns, Franklin’s Gulls and a solitary Gray Gull. Having eked out all the beach/ bay offered, minus Guanay Cormorant, the decision was made to move on. An impromptu toilet break, also at Reñaca, pulling out a rather distant Chilean Skua in the bay.

From this point forth it was south all the way. By mid-afternoon, come what may, San Antonio would need to be in our orbit, a two hour drive away. Headlong we travelled, eating away at the mileage, the weather by now far more personable. The time allowance at our disposal comfortable enough to deploy a stop or two along the way. A few stops around Quebrada de Cordova, amidst a rural, well vegetated backdrop was a surefire guarantee of delivering a host of new and diverse species. Our insatiable appetite whetted during these brief interludes, harvesting an array of different and in many cases our only observations of the entire tour: Fire-eyed Diucon, the endemic Dusky-tailed Canastero, Rufous-tailed Plantcutter and White-throated Hawk the palpable standouts. A Long-tailed Meadowlark was nice but it was a shame we missed out on White-throated Tapaculo (endemic). A third and final pre-cruise rendezvous was planned, although prematurely aborted due to traffic congestion, so all thoughts were now focused exclusively on the tour’s primary objective.

Once at San Antonio port the magnificent leviathan that is Sapphire Princess loomed before our very eyes. A huge, magnificent edifice, and our temporary home for the forthcoming few weeks. Able to facilitate in excess of three thousand passengers, all boarding over one afternoon comes with it logistical challenges. So we joined the throng. Separated and free from our luggage, we journeyed into a vast cavernous outbuilding dressed in dull birdwatching fatigues, dusty boots and clutching our optical paraphernalia we certainly stood out from the other clientele. In roundly an hour we’d all collected our medallions, been whisked through a custom scan, journeyed by bus a few hundred yards to then walk onboard. Everyone initially made a beeline to their respective cabins, reacquainted once again with their personal belongings and time to explore this 15 deck floating conurbation and get our bearings. Amidst the labyrinth of narrow cabin lined hallways lay spacious lounges, bars, restaurants, shops, a casino, a gymnasium and of course topside numerous pools with sun loungers. Having foregone sustenance for several hours many naturally gravitated towards finding a place to eat and a choosing of liquid refreshment to quench individuals wants.

Conscious of the time, the approaching six pm departure drawing ever closer onboard temptations ceded to what loitered just outside its boundaries. The environs a working port. Although not the most picturesque of landscapes a few of us gathered in optimistic, bullish mood at the stern of deck seven. Our happy vibes quashed by a simple tannoy announcement stating that our highly anticipated three hours evening at sea cruelly was to be terminated by news of a five hour delay. Crushing news! This all but eradicating any chances of seeing Chatham’s Albatross and Humboldt Penguin. Mutiny (joke, obviously) was quickly eliminated. Armed only with a few toothless tripods and a motley crew of fourteen foot soldiers, pitched against one thousand one hundred staff and having no life skills in operating a 952 feet cruise ship we were rendered somewhat impotent! So we made the best of it, scoping the  rather distant harbour mouth and surrounding port. A close Marine Otter almost slipped by undetected but not for an incongruent glance below us, all the while numerous distant rocky facades and surrounding area’s held amongst the more commonly associated species new trip birds in the form of Snowy-crowned Terns, over 80 Red-legged Cormorants on the quay, along with 4 Guanay Cormorants and at least half a dozen marauding Arctic Skuas and a single Pomarine Skua. And that was the best we could come up with before heading to dinner and turning our thoughts to what might be seen tomorrow.....

CRUISE DAY 2  AT SEA

Putting our delayed departure out of San Antonio behind us last night, I’m sure many bristled with fervent excitement early this morning. Some no doubt peering tentatively out of their various cabins with unabated smiles and thoughts of what the day would ultimately bring. We’d a full day's sailing today, fifteen hours of enjoyable birdable daylight lay ahead of us, so a select few amassed on deck pre-dawn eager not to waste a moment. Peering out as shadowy ghost-like semblances effortlessly sauntered by, our first Black-browed Albatrosses were identified even though it was still dark. We were now deep into the expansive environs of the southern Pacific Ocean, vestiges of land now far off to our stsrboard and with the weather set fair all day we waited expectantly. Eventually our full contingent had assembled, each armed with their optics, many with camera’s and minds laden full of expectation.

Trying to convey in writing those first few hours one must on balance gauge it on past personal experiences. Seawatching, if land based in the UK regales tales of discomfort and a high degree of palpable disappointments. Raising the ante, taking a small craft out on a pelagic, of which we’ve all numerous experiences is thrilling but let’s not pretend, it’s often quiet if not for chumming and given susceptible seafaring failings also subject to nauseous accompaniments. But on this cruise,  you’re in a different realm with spacious, stable decks, niches in which to take cover, hot beverages/ toilet facilities to hand and most importantly, a voluminous array of birdlife, often affording point blank views. You experience seawatching at its imperious best here on the Sapphire Princess. Several of our group would stick out almost the entire day, staunchly ensconced on deck, whilst others would dip in and out at regular intervals. Keeping abreast of unfurling events via our Whatsapp group.

The entire day witnessed just eighteen species: a decent return given our whereabouts. Most being lifers for everybody. Virtually omnipresent, White-chinned Petrels and Pink-footed Shearwaters were the mainstay, both were seen in their hundreds and throwing into the mix smaller numbers of Sooty Shearwaters added a modicum of variety. Less gregarious and infinitely harder to pinpoint were the gadfly’s. The strident utterance ‘Gadfly!!’ proliferated frequently, broadcasting as to one’s presence. Some were seen well and by all, others customarily bashful and evasive. An exceptionally high tally of twenty-nine Stejneger’s Petrels a profitable return, intermixed with a single, similarly looking Masatierra Petrel  and two Juan Fernandez Petrels, their longer winged structure and jizz quite obvious.

Search as hard as we might through approximately one hundred and twenty storm-petrels, all materialised into Fuegian (Wilson’s) Storm Petrels, and mindful that today was our only real opportunity of seeing the equally diminutive Peruvian Diving Petrel proved correct, encountering six. A flock of about twenty Grey Phalaropes would also, quite surprising, be our only ones of the tour. As for marauders, two skua species were noted: a single Chilean Skua and seven Arctic’s, plus our first confrontation with Northern Giant Petrels, sixteen of them in all. Oh and a few Magellanic Penguins were also picked up.

Let’s now talk albatross’s. They come with a colossal reputation, and always, always deliver. Their appeal is and will forever be universal and for evidence look no further than Bempton Cliffs, Yorkshire. For those that made that pilgrimage, whom were many, glowing accounts resonate but to honestly witness their true majesty, that legendary aerial prowess was something we all experienced first-hand today, some for the very first time. Not once or twice but figuratively speaking in excess of one hundred Black-browed Albatross’s formed the lions share, common if great birds in their own right but commanding greater attention were the bigger beasts. The greatest (today), Northern Royal Albatross, a towering wingspan exceeding three metres really grabs your attention, noting at least twenty-five. And we shouldn’t denounce by comparison the marginally smaller compadres, fifteen Salvin’s and three Buller’s rounded off a wonderful four albatross day, each no doubt having their own particular favourite. The last few hours of daylight saw a big increase in numbers of birds and in glorious sunshine the few of us left on deck enjoyed great views of many of the previously mentioned species. Non-avian highlights today were Sei and Sperm Whales, South American Fur Seals and South American Sealions.

As dusk loomed, our day finished, we settled in for a relaxing evening. Indulging in bolstering one’s calory intake, taking in a drink or two and reminiscing with newfound friends the experiences we had just shared together over the last few hours.

CRUISE DAY 3  PUERTO MONTT   

Overnight we continued on south and by daylight finding ourselves moored off Puerto Montt, Chile. Today we had a change of tact as we’d be back on terra firma. With thousands of others with the same intention, to avoid a rebellious free for all, a ticket allocation system was provided, allowing access ashore via a shuttle delivery boat service. Mindful of potential delays we headed ashore before most, secured by queuing early for tickets. We met up again with Claudio Vidal around 8am.

For the next hour or two we were in and out of the bus, birding the coastal reaches of the surrounding area (Avenida Juan Soler Manfredini and Rio Lenca). Brief twenty minutes interludes here, twenty minutes there. Reacquainting as much as anything the species seen already around San Antonio. Several new trip additions were also forthcoming, namely Black-necked Swan, Imperial Cormorant, Crested Caracara, Magellanic Oystercatcher, Hudsonian Godwit, Flightless Steamer-Duck and Grassland Yellow Finch.

We headed on east, passing pasture lands laden with Black-faced Ibis, not stopping, for we’d grander plans. They were to be found just twenty eight kilometres away, nestled within the lush, forested area of Alerce Andino National Park. A smash and grab raid, which proved to be very, very fruitful. With Claudio taking the lead, and adhering to his recommendation of limited, hushed vocabulary we followed him through a dense, meandering forest trail. Things were slow to begin with but soon picked up when a calling Magellanic Tapaculo was the first to grab everyone’s attention. Its ability to move undetected through foliage, the hallmark of all tapaculos, was to our initial frustrations witnessed firsthand. At times, mouse like, it crept within feet of us, most initially getting arbitrary glimpses before all could finally say they saw it well. From the very same locality came another burst of song, Claudio exclaiming it from another targeted species - Cuchao Tapaculo. This one wasn’t so forthcoming, but Claudio seemed unperturbed, easing any harboured tensions, calmly stating we would find another. We heard many more as we continued on, they seemed in fact quite abundant, boding well. Stopping at a small clearing held numerous White-crested Elaenia’s, the most common resident of the forest, with several Thorn-tailed Rayadito’s thrown in for good measure. A Chilean Pigeon was picked up overhead, while a Green-backed Firecrown hurriedly zipped back and forth.

After that our party fragmented somewhat, not an ideal situation, but consolidated once again by news of two words - Cuchao Tapaculo. You try to stay calm in these given situations, and all credit to those present, the application and teamwork was mightily impressive. No raised voices, no mad dashing around, a collective embodiment of how forest birding really can work. We spent probably fifteen minutes in its company despite its attempt at playing hide-and-seek with us, which it wasn't very good t and eveyone savoured the close views.

Leaving the magical corridor trail Claudio then directed us to explore its margins, taking us on a more leisurely walk along a driveable tract of forest. We covered no more than a few hundred yards of this track before a calling Black-throated Huet-huet became our third tapaculo within the space of a few hours. It laid low, discreetly tucked away in dark cover, purgatory to those having either not located it or persons gaining unsatisfactory views. Those anxious, we probably all were, rectified as it sat motionless in a window of cover, available for all to see well. Phew! Relief, now breathe....!

To round things off, whilst some were pre-occupied by another Magellanic Tapaculo, Claudio found within a foraging flock a White-throated Treerunner. Disappearing momentarily, its welcome return found us all connecting with it. What another great looking bird that is. Our final hurrah here was upon leaving, as we drove through the narrow forest track,  a raptor drew everyone out. Disrupted by foliage cover and its trajectory wayward any hope of certifying its identity lay stored in Paul's camera. A quick look by Claudio affirming it to be a White-throated Hawk.

You gotta eat, right? Heading back, we stopped at a roadside shop. Each picking something they fancied, a drink and many enticed to the refrigerator for a lolly. Idly we chomped, guzzled and licked our way through our chosen choices in situ, which in hindsight also ate valuable time into our time restricted day. Back onboard the bus, we detoured from the main throughfare we’d earlier traversed, opting to give what little time we had at our disposal to one final push. Arriving at Chamiza with one eye fixed on the time, the other scanning the coastal surroundings and many grabbed the opportunity to photograph some confiding Black-faced Ibis, others scanning the shoreline. A small party of both Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs made for a great comparison lesson, Chilean and Blue-and-White Swallows hawked above us, frustratingly a male Austral Negrito eluded many. With time rapidly ebbing away, we made one last stop nearby, with rain now gently falling. A valiant final push to find one last key objective, the endemic Der Murs's Wiretail. With some Zen like prophesy we struck instantaneous gold, well some of us did, until bush blindness was replaced with eye-ball popping views. We arrived back at Puerto Montt just ten minutes before our scheduled 16:30 deadline, hurriedly saying our final goodbyes to Claudio, with the rain now set in apparently for good. What should have been a quick transition onto the ship turned into an utter fiasco. For reasons unknown, we joined a queue of biblical proportions. A tedious ninety minutes shuffling along followed, being the only blight on our day. Finally, once aboard, our departure set back an hour, each did their own thing. Showers soothed aching limbs, others courted somewhere convenient to grab a bite to eat.

However, our day was not yet concluded, as for us seabird afficionados we now sailed into revered territory. Only a decade earlier (2013) the channel from Puerto Montt to near the open Pacific Ocean rose to prominence with a startling scientific discovery of a 'new' species of storm-petrel.  An hour's sailing along the channel and  matters hadn’t quite gone according to plan.... yet.  There was no sign of the endemic Pincoya Storm-Petrel. With daylight ebbing away way too quickly, thoughts turned to a sad dip. Relentlessly we scanned from the bow of the ship, seeing  Black-browed Albatross, Pink-footed Shearwaters, two Chilean Skuas,  twenty-five Arctic Skuas,  and a fine flock of 250+ Franklin's Gulls being our best sightings. Yet we steadfastly continued, our vigil unwavering. Our waning optimism finally galvanised by our first sight of several very distant stormies, which in turn was both encouraging yet frustrating in equal measures. Trying to use scopes, we rationalised they doubtlessly were pincoyas, but being so far away we could not nail the i.d. Picking out any salient features on a sparrow sized bird several hundred metres away on a moving ship and in fading light was beyond all of our expertise. However, there was to be that euphoric finale, as with the light almost gone, at least six Pincoya Storm-Petrels wave-danced directly in front of us. Our stoic perseverance had paid off and once again, high fives all round for the remaining sturdy seawatchers!

CRUISE DAY 4  AT SEA

Another day back at sea, this one a tad windier, in fact quite a bit windier. It came as no real surprise to discover the bow viewing deck was out of bounds and cordoned off, so we relocated to a more sheltered location. Huddling together from daybreak, some dipping in and out, others more fixated on maintaining a constant vigil. With all now ‘blooded in’ so to speak, their initiation a few days prior making each now suitably acclimatised and relatively comfortable in identifying many of the core species passing by us today.

How would we fare today? Well let’s find out.....

The overall intensity and volumes of birds seen were as predicted, quite staggering. This summary constitutes a conservative estimation of numbers as we traversed through more than 400kms of open ocean.

Figuratively speaking, Black-browed Albatross must rank as one of the days overall highlights, dare I say one of many. Effectively omnipresent, numbers excessively exceeding those of previous days. A constant joyous salvo, and an onslaught on one’s visual senses. Indulgent albatross overload! A steady stream sauntering by, supplemented by armada type gatherings sat on the sea. As inconceivable as it sounds, in number they actually usurped the more regulatory high volume species one would expect to see here. Our tally for the day exceeding an eyewatering 700.

Intermingling, the black-browed's and vying for our attention were  high volumes of White-chinned Petrels (600+), Sooty (1,150) and Pink-footed Shearwaters (90) being the core protagonists. Our excitement levels piqued time and again, motioned by the presence of something different. Amid the constant barrage of Black-browed Albatross, bigger, bolder and more beautiful specimens generated the most interest and rush of adrenalin. None come any more impressive than the greatest of all, the Wandering Albatross. A species now officially split into everal species, with  two expectant trip contenders. Outlandishly long winged, we’d not wait long to see our first, a regal adult Snowy Albatross, then another, followed by a markedly different looking immature. Our first Antipodean Albatross followed soon after, picked up some way off it seemed curious by the ships presence, motioning every closer, closer still, until finally lingering outrageously around the stern. Some made a frenzied dash aft, gaining scintillating views and/ or papping it for prosperity. All to a man (and woman) intensely satisfied. More of each laced our day, eleven Snowy and four Antipodean Albatross, an efficient return rate. They may well have been the highlights for many that day, but we must also throw into the mix twenty seven Southern Royal Albatross, eleven Northern Royal Albatross, a further twenty-three unidentified (distant) Royal Albatross species,  forty-three Salvin’s and three Buller’s Albatross. You can therefore gauge the enormity and extravaganza we witnessed today.

Our focal deployment wasn’t just reserved for the big and beautiful. Big yes, but more bruising than stunning are giant petrels. Three Southern and two Northern Giant Petrels passed close enough by for adjudication, a further forty or so either too far away or marginalised by the association of more pressing matters at hand. Opposingly, fine-looking but statutorily less endowed were a further thirteen Stejneger’s and seven Juan Fernandez Petrels, and our first and only Slender-billed Prion of the day almost slipped past undetected were it not for Duncan. Storm-Petrels were once again shy, amidst a large backdrop of open expanse and its swell. It’s safe to say many probably went unobserved despite our best intensions, those that we encountered, just fourteen, all found to be Fuegian Storm Petrels.

Ahh, the joys of seawatching.

CRUISE DAY 5   AMALIA GLACIER - AT SEA

This morning the tannoy system waxed lyrical as we approached the Amalia Glacier. Navigating unhurriedly through breathtaking scenery it gradually came into view and the viewing deck on level eight, normally bereft of occupants bristled with folk, all clad in warm attire, many keen to indulge in photographic selfies as a keepsake. We’d do much the same to be fair, but whereas others came and went, perhaps legislated by the plunging temperatures and temptations of warm refreshments onboard we stuck it out. Flying Steamer-Ducks were not hard to find, albeit kept a wide berth from the ship, whilst South American Terns sauntered by or gathered on many of the disregarded remnants of ice dislodged from the glacier. Other than that little was noted.

Pressing on, the ship glided serenely through pristine picturesque landscapes. Navigating through a passage of one hundred and seventy five kms of untainted, barren wilderness. A rugged labyrinth set amidst foreboding hills, rocky inlets, islets and precious little else, certainly no evidence of human colonisation. The ambiance, a contradiction to the high octane pastures of the Pacific Ocean, the pace and tone now a more genteel, sedate affair. For company, our first Kelp Geese were much appreciated, but the views were far from stellar, picking up singles or pairs pitched unobtrusively on outlying outcrops. Were it not for the males radiant pallor they would probably have slipped our attention, emblazoning a darkened backdrop. Imperial Cormorants were predictably far more numerous at these southerly latitudes, Magellanic Penguins too becoming more of a feature. Several whale blows added a little spice to proceedings, while for many the morning's highlight was a Peale’s Dolphin. With not much happening outside for a while, we decided to take a bit of time off and rest indoors, however our 'holiday mode' was abruptly ended as the ship-wide announcement that we would return to the open ocean turned out to be two hours overexagerrated and caused us all to rush back to our cabins and don warm and waterproof outdoor clothing in a hurry. This spot was where we found the first White-headed Petrel for Chile during last year's cruise and we needed to be out there, scanning for anything. This is good seabird ocean, yet we didn't find the hoped-for biggie. There was little doubt about this afternoon’s highlight, Slender-billed Prion. Small, pale, agile, livewire projectiles zooming in front of the ship at some speed. Our first inkling of something quite magical initiated by a distant yet sizeable group of about sixty and thereon in they just kept coming and coming. Each arrowing at high velocity into troughs or over peaks at breakneck speed, and we estimated at least four hundred in all, although I suspect it was many, many more.

By contrast, we’d all become rather blasé of seeing copious amounts of Sooty Shearwaters, today’s tally somewhere in the magnitude of 1,200. Numbers of White-chinned Petrels once again dwindled, recording just eight, but we’d had more than our fill of them over the last few days. Other than that we had twenty-nine Black-browed Albatross, one Buller’s Albatross, a light smattering of Southern Giant Petrels and a Chilean Skua. At the opposing end of the size spectrum, Fuegian Storm-Petrels were more bountiful, postulating somewhere in the region of one hundred and ten, and three equally diminutive Magellanic Diving Petrels, our first of the trip. Some also saw a Blue Petrel, but it was a very brief flyby.

CRUISE DAY 6   PUNTA ARENAS

We rose from our slumber once again to the sight of land, finding ourselves this time moored off Punta Arenas, right in the heart of Patagonia. Today would be special, well that was the plan. Our tender ashore was once again masterminded by queuing early for tickets, and we were away pronto, finding ourselves on one of the first vessels to set ashore. Today our local guide would be Jurgen, found waiting in the arrival area with placard, but in all honesty he’d not need it. You could tell from his dress code!

Wasting no time we levitated towards the waiting bus, and with Jurgen’s synopsis of our mouthwatering itinerary we were quickly departing. Stopping twice, if briefly, to scan the city’s beachside gatherings. Dolphin Gulls quite naturally held most people’s interests, twelve of varying ages liberally scattered amongst several hundred Kelp and Brown-hooded Gulls and thrown in for good measure some Franklin’s Gulls and two Black Skimmers, the latter something of a rarity here. It was a good spot to compare Neotropic, Magellanic and Imperial Cormorants too.

Barely moments later we adjourned at Humedal Tres Puentes, a once derelict and abandoned stretch of waste ground on the outskirts of the city. From a visual perspective it’s not blessed, bit of an eyesore in many regards but now a flourishing haven for waterbirds and very birdy. From our initial vantage point time was divided scanning both the watercourse and also the adjacent grasslands on the opposing side of the road. A single Ashy-headed Goose was skilfully picked out by Jurgen amongst hundreds of foraging Upland Geese. A scan of the small lake and its muddy margins our main focus, additional trip ticks falling in Chilean Flamingo’s (34), Coscoroba Swan (3), pirouetting Wilson’s Phalaropes (6) and some Chiloe Wigeon. Throw in numerous Red Shoveler, Yellow-billed Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail, Crested Duck, Red-gartered Coot, Chimango and Southern Crested Caracara, some Dolphin and Franklin’s Gull’s made for a rewarding stop. Wishing to gain a more advantageous perspective on the far reaches of the lake we relocated no more than a few hundred yards away. Doing so gained point blank views of a single Magellanic Snipe, Buff-winged & Dark-bellied Cinclodes, a female Austral Negrito, several White-rumped Sandpipers, a Baird’s Sandpiper, all completely unfazed by the groups close attendance.

Moving on, small talk in the bus emanating from Jurgen centred upon another targeted species of wildfowl, a new one. The journey was pretty short, and lo & behold we were back to a coastal environment. Cruising the vicinity of Barranco Amarillo- Caleta Pescadores, Jurgen not taking long to usher the bus to stop once again. A pair of Flying Steamer-Ducks held court, exceedingly confiding individuals they were too. Flanked as if by a minder or guardian, an immature Elephant Seal, making for an unusual alliance. The ducks unperturbed by its very, very close and continued attendance, also too ours. We could have made an ultra-quick getaway there and then, seeing that we’d nailed our target so effortlessly, but extended our stay a little longer, Bill finding a Black-crowned Night Heron, a small concrete plinth privy to four Magellanic Cormorants and a Dark-bellied Cinclodes, and close inshore a party of eight White-tufted Grebes. All the while a rather large and garrulous dog befriended Lee or was it the other way around.

Rio Seco- laguna was a rather salubrious setting for our net stop. Flanked by a tired looking cement factory stood a small wet meadow, with outlying grasslands. Our transgression was not fixated on the local heavy industry, but to the gathering of geese. A swathe of 113 Ashy-headed Geese counted but clinically, found amongst them three stunning Ruddy-headed Geese. We then headed inland, using route 9 north, a busy artery road. We’d some mileage to cover but would make two impromptu interruptions. The initial one an hour later for a close Lesser Rhea, the second, for a perched Black-chested Buzzard Eagle, adding the Patagonian speciality Austral Canastero and a Correndera Pipit for good measure.

Next it was make or break time, as the whole day rested on the outcome of our next destination, Laguna Los Palos. Lying some fifty kilometres north of Punta Arenas, as the title implies it holds a watercourse, or at various times of the year it does. Right now, well right now to all intense purposes it was parched dry, squidgy underfoot in places, but irrationally held waders, and lots of them. Many were not readily apparent from the outset, the odd White-rumped Sandpiper here, the odd Two-banded Plover there, beyond many, many more. Although a flyby Cinereous Harrier generated further interest we fixated upon an area of appeal requiring transitioning a little deeper into the dry lakes recess. Poor views from the outset (a scoped dot), but unmistakeably signs of one wader, pallid in tone, dispatched us confidently onward. After ten, maybe fifteen minutes, walking past hordes more plovers and sandpipers we all finally had reasonable views of the monotypic Magellanic Plover. An odd looking wader, reminiscent in many regards in shape to a small pigeon, fourteen faces radiated uncontainable exultation. What many then least expected was depictional from a scene of the Pied Piper. Jurgen strode assuredly towards what was not one but now eight, stopping our party confidently within a radius of perhaps ten/ fifteen metres away. Nobody, and I mean nobody could have wished for or envisioned such obscene views. Before retreating we used some time scanning a little further out, some picking out the odd Baird’s Sandpiper amongst a backdrop of White-rumps, and similarly the plovers, where the occasional Rufous-chested Plover lurked, along with an Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant.

For the remainder of the afternoon we traversed the arid Patagonian landscape. Lesser Rhea’s proved to be somewhat common, along with many Guanaco’s. In the middle of nowhere we stopped at Jurgen’s behest where a Band-tailed Earthcreeper played hide-and-seek with us. At times coy, at times amenable. Another major highlight of today was a small party of fantastic looking Tawny-throated Dotterel. Mindful of our attendance they kept their distance, scurrying and stopping within the tall pasture, using their odd rakishly long necks, the perfect adaptation to life in tall undergrowth to keep vigil on us.

Much of the remaining afternoon was spent hunkered in the van as the wind picked up. Efforts to find Least Seedsnipe proved fruitless, a minor transgression from an otherwise highly productive day but we did get to see a few Long-tailed Meadowlarks and Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch. By way of a parting gift, an Aplomado Falcon was found perched on a roadside fence post. We’d have ourselves some of that, the van vacated, the falcon relished. With each passing minute it propagated time effectively lost in transit back to Punta Arenas, a travelling time not inconsequential, an hour or so away. Jurgen’s dialect and nervous disposition politely decree we forsake longer with it, time was no longer on our side. We rocked into port just in time, saying our final farewell’s to Jurgen. No ostentatious gatherings thankfully to contend with today and we were quickly on board.

We sailed out of Punta Arenas on time and still had a further two hours of daylight. The inshore waters produced Magellanic Penguins, Kelps Gulls and South American Terns. Pushing further out these would abate, replaced by the more associated deep water species. Lots of Black-browed Albatross, some Southern Giant Petrels, derisory few shearwaters, just one Pink-footed, two Manx and two Sooty, the numerical absorptions reserved towards Fuegian Storm Petrel(c.70) and Magellanic Diving Petrel, the concentration of and broad nature of seeing them throughout the evening evaluated a total exceeding two thousand! Amazing!

CRUISE DAY 7   USHUAIA

Our morning was characteristically much the same, gathering on deck from first light as Argentina and Ushuaia beckoned. Our voyage taking us along the wonderous and picturesque Beagle Channel and our scrutiny of the rich birdlife gave us Black-browed Albatross (190), Southern Giant Petrel (60) and Sooty Shearwaters (40) rationally more sea based, funnelled along the channel. Outlying rocky islands a sanctuary for Dolphin Gull (c.50), Kelp Goose (39), Imperial (c.1250) and Magellanic Cormorants (c.100). The waterway itself a feeding ground for Magellanic Penguins (15), very large numbers of South American Terns (2000+), that naturally attracted the profuse audience of marauding Chilean Skua’s (c.110) and a lone Arctic Skua.

We docked at around 10am, liaising with our guide Esteban shortly after. Whisked away to the towns outskirts and the Tierra del Fuego National Park where another birder gave us news that was music to our ears about the forests very own crown jewel and a species we missed last year. We were thankful he didn’t rattle off those auspicious and convoluted directions, you know the type we’ve all experienced before- ‘yes, right, its twenty minutes’ walk, head that way, you’ll walk by an obvious bush that shaped like a (thoughtful pause) like a dinosaur, further on you’ll find a tree covered in moss and its 300 metres beyond that, you can’t miss it!’. Nope, extending his arm, he ponted to a nearby section of mature wood. We thanked his generosity and hastily departed, walking headlong into what we hoped would be an impeccable start to our day. Within minutes we’d tracked down the drumming source (clue), sequestering our very own views of a pair of stunning Magellanic Woodpeckers. Wonderful, simply wonderful. Bird of the day nailed right off the bat. Audible expressions of fanfare and relief openly conversed, and theoretically a huge timesaver to our heavy schedule. 

Withdrawing, regrouping back at the now rapidly filling car park (it was a Sunday), the tranquillity and outstanding backdrop lured many local Ushuaian’s (and fellow cruisers) to descend en-masse. Not our ideal scenario, but what can you do? A perched American Kestrel watched the comings and goings, as we watched it. Meanwhile, the lake, at first glance benign: a small party of Yellow-billed Teal and Yellow-billed Pintail didn’t rouse a great deal of interest, a few Great Grebes raised the bar, although things became supercharged finding a pair of stunning Spectacled (Bronze-winged) Ducks. Another species that eluded us last year. The park was certainly delivering. A third highlight soon followed (and we were still only in the carpark), a few raucous Austral Parakeets zipped past, not great views, but these remedied within the hour, whilst Patagonian Sierra-Finch put in an appearance.

Eager to explore, having barely left the confines of the parking area we moved on. Walking a gladed path, Esteban stopping us intermittently, be it to observe Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Austral Thrush, Black-chinned Siskin, Patagonian Sierra-Finch, White-crested Elaenia and more poignantly a decent perched view of Austral Parakeet. The rest of the leisurely walk was rather non-descript, a calling White-throated Treerunner wasn’t tracked down, our return halted by a confiding Great Grebe in full summer regalia. Lunch was then taken in situ.

After our picnic lunch we'd swap one busy car park for an even busier one, having to leave our driver the enviable task of finding a parking space whilst we explored. As we pushed on the visiting masses thinned out. The scrub delivering more White-crested Elaenia, Thorn-tailed Rayadito’s and Patagonian Sierra Finch’s. A few secluded bays held Crested Duck, some Flightless Steamer-Ducks, three Neotropic, two Magellanic, and dozens of Imperial Cormorants, the obligatory South American Terns and a fleeting glimpse of a Ringed Kingfisher. We then drove out of the national park to a windswept, desolate, muddy/stoney coastal beach, home to a few small tardy houses, some optimistic if huddled fishermen and BIRDS!! Even though it pulled out nothing new, barring the rather brisk climate, suitably wrapped, getting close views, initially of Dolphin Gulls (15), later Kelp Geese (24), honing ones skills in separating Flying (7) from accompanying Flightless Steamer-Ducks (14), throw in more ducks: Crested Duck (30), Chiloe Wigeon (40), Yellow-billed Teal (25) and Yellow-billed Pintail (7), liberally infuse some waders; White-rumped Sandpiper (58+), a couple of Magellanic Oystercatcher, one moulting Rufous-chested Dotterel and a tidal bound Buff-winged Cinclodes fended off any vestiges the weather propelled our way. ‘Team Scotland’, aka. Raymond and Shiela, stating it was ‘Nay bother’.

Our last call of the day, well let’s just say it was a tip. Not a tip as in a tipoff, no, but a pungent waste ground, Ushuaia’s garbage dump. Our swansong, raptor watching Ushuaian-style. We didn’t have much time at our disposal, although wouldn’t need it. Proliferating the skyline, hawking caracara’s, and lots of them. Lured by the slim pickings we humans dispose of. Chimango Caracara’s (40+), ex-essentially the region’s most widespread and communal raptor liaised amongst the visibly sturdier and likewise common Southern Crested Caracara (9+), although it was their namesake brethren, White-throated Caracara we sought. At least five of mixed ages observed, the pied adults striking. Several Black-chested Buzzard Eagles were also in attendance. You couldn’t fail to miss a perched sub-adult, it drew minimal attention from us, a soaring adult on the other hand received far more courtesy. And that was it. Ushuaia done.

CRUISE DAY 8   CAPE HORN ONWARDS   

Overnight we pushed south, and to another historic landmark, Cape Horn at the very tip of this mighty continent. The very name evokes perceptual and sanguine images of hostility, of brutal towering waves, and the hapless plight of lost mariners of ages past.

As the day dawned Sapphire  Princess lay within its spectre, our party ahead of the game, ready from the off. The tannoy broadcasting our arrival at Cape Horn. The viewing deck once again congested but bathed by bright blue skies, and a relatively tranquil ocean making viewing thoroughly enjoyable and much easier than one would expect. And the ocean bustled with activity. Rafts of shearwaters and albatross encircled us, many more nonchalantly glided by, to and fro they sauntered. The numbers so vast, a sight so impressive but countermanded that the first of two new trip additions went unseen by many. No concerns at missing Great Shearwater, we were guaranteed droves more, Grey-headed Albatross on the other hand were less predictable. No dissenting utterance’s, no consternation, no crisis, for shortly after others were located and seen well, with one in particular gliding past directly underneath the ship's bow. We lingered quite a while just off the Cape before it was time to depart.

Picking up speed, each passing minute the Argentinian skyline withered before finally lost to view. We were now in the territorial depths of the South Atlantic and a full day at our disposal. Seven species of albatross were noted, many of course expected. Black-browed Albatross a stonewall certainty, estimations concluding in the region of about eight hundred, Southern Royals another inevitability, at least forty, although perhaps a figure we might double given observations of other Royals seen too far away to assign to a species. Some may have been Northern Royal Albatross, two most certainly were. Three Snowy Albatross, and three distant probable’s highlights within highlights, although for pure eye candy Grey-headed Albatross stole the show today with twelve seen, including a breathtakingly close flyby of one. One species we’d not envisioned today was the more Pacific restricted Salvin’s Albatross. Five certainties, and unquestionably our last of the tour, plus one similarly looking White-capped Albatross being a very good sighting indeed.

A broad sweeping summarisation of the rest are as follows.....
Somewhere in the region of three hundred Giant Petrels were recorded, the vast majority went unvetted. Expectations support that most would have been Southern Giant Petrels, about one hundred and thirty clearly were, although much smaller numbers of Northern Giant Petrel were also present. Although never vying for bird of the day, Sooty Shearwaters made an indelible impression. Fantastic seafarers in their own right, marginalised I guess given their esteemed company, but what a privilege it was to bear witness to sooooooo many. Our conservative estimations sanction around 8,000. Another much cherished northern hemisphere seafarer, one touched upon earlier, Great Shearwater grew in abundance as the day unfurled. Meanwhile Slender-billed Prions again reached into treble figures and we couldn’t get enough of these, you never do. While pitting our skills at thirty knots to distant dancing black dots, somewhere in the region of about four hundred, arguably more, lauded rather disappointingly all to be Wilson’s Storm Petrels, just one observer, which given his tenacity and endeavour picking out a distant Black-bellied Storm Petrel. Similar in size, although markedly different in stature, five Common Diving Petrels were another trip addition pulled out of the day. Subtle facial markings and underwing variation delineating it from similarly looking family members. These along with storm-petrels a potential prey source to both Chilean and Brown Skuas. And we also had our first taste of Brown Skua as well today. Late into the day a party of four Gentoo Penguins were picked up not too far out, it wasn't the finest of views but this would be rectified handsomely tomorrow.

CRUISE DAY 9   FALKLAND ISLANDS!  

By first light Sapphire Princess had pitched in a bay close to Port Stanley. Here we were, British Sovereignty and the Falkland Islands. Typically the weather was, as you may say 'british-like', as it was rather chilly and the bay eerily shrouded in a bit of early morning mist. Within the hour Stanley beckoned, Magellanic Penguins and Falkland Steamer-Ducks littered the channel, although for pure spectacle a single party of about four thousand Sooty Shearwaters the over-riding memory of that first hour whilst the ship was attempting to moor up. 

Once again we tendered one of the first vessels ashore. Stanley in one word - tiny! Pre-arranged mobility scheduling held no allowance for me. Lee had no ride, so would not be joining the group on their long journey to Volunteer Point. This held no hangups, he was happy on his  own, or so he thought. Roberta splintered at the last moment; her desire not necessarily founded on spending the day with me but on the genuine proposal my schedule probably stood a better of chance of seeing Snowy Sheathbill. An itinerary would negate a four hour round journey the others faced, ours a more sedate and relaxed ten minute sojourn by minibus exploring nearby Gypsy Cove, and along the way a Variable Hawk was noted. The site is managed, wardened by volunteers, with many sensitive conservation areas duly cordoned off. Direct access to the bay was prohibited, so instead we surveyed it from an overlooking vista. Several weeks prior it held a sheathbill, alas no sign of it today. Oh well, it might manifest itself later, never say never and all that, for now we just pre-occupied ourselves watching Dolphin Gulls idly intermingling with roosting Kelp Gulls.

The uneven surface of the headland would be Roberta’s nemesis. Catching her foot she’d take a tumble. Laden down with her scope, camera, bins and bag the fall could have been quite nasty. Thankfully it wasn’t, only Inflicting minor superficial damage, a lightly grazed knee, a bruising of one hand and apologetically harbouring some damaged pride. Our first of many Dark-faced Ground Tyrants witnessed this! Ahead, once dusted off and composure restored, birding was once again back on the agenda. A pair of Correndera Pipits, several Long-tailed Meadowlarks, Black-chinned Siskins and White-bridled Finches galvanised proceedings somewhat. Whatever else we thought we'd see, we didn't visualise eyeballing a small gathering of two foot tall Magellanic Penguins twelve feet beside us. Stood incongruously below our eyeline we almost managed to miss them! Their leniency was extraordinary, moulded by thousands of past bystanders, composed, they watched us whilst we in turn watched them. Our optical aids rendered superfluous.

Pulling ourselves away from the penguins, our optics now back in play, we were drawn by the plethora of birdlife amassed on Yorke Point, the opposing headland. Visually, it's a good direct mile away, although considering the curvature of the bay, any hike over there would potentially be doubled. Deliberating whether to go or not was promptly put to rest, Gentoo Penguins the arbitrating factor. We hadn’t walked far when we garnered a lift. Earlier we’d struck up a conversation with a retired royal naval person, now stationed locally he charitably offered us a ride. Yorke Point’s topography is predominantly one of rolling white sandy dunes, stabilized by swathes of marram-like grass. Scenically stunning but demanding underfoot. Again, due to its sensitivity many a volunteer maintain a status quo, the birds taking precedence, onlookers willingly encouraged to observe but respect and affirm some social distancing. Whilst on the subject it was heartening to see so many young children participate in the conservation of their avifauna. As for the Gentoo’s, they were stunning. No twelve foot views like the earlier Magellanic’s, although still astonishingly close. Hundreds of them, many just lounging around motionless, others shoreline based, as if contemplating a dip. Many whom visited the colony took pictures, some indulged in some selfie’s, to which I confess I was one. Beyond, at the tip of Yorke Point lay a towering rocky outcrop. It needed exploring, and anyhow was conveniently sited on our stroll back. There would be no carriaged return, just a delightful meander back. No obvious time pressures, no real guiding necessary. The outcrop a sanctuary amassing plenty of South American Terns, Dolphin and Kelp Gulls, the odd Kelp Goose and lots of cormorants, but forlornly no sheathbill. Most of the bay beyond was open access. Not the quickest of walkers we did it in first gear anyway, no rush, stopping frequently. How could you not with the close proximity of Falkland Steamer-Ducks, foraging Dolphin Gulls and best of all two confiding Peale’s Dolphins merited it. Once back at Gypsy Cove, Roberta sought the shelter of the bus stop to rest, whilst I wrestled with a scope view of a white speck on the rock we’d passed a few hours back, muting tentatively it might be a sheathbill..? Turns out it wasn’t! Back at Stanley, we poked our heads into a local pub on the off chance of finding the others. That drew a blank, they’d found another cosy hostelry and by all accounts found the hospitality very much too their liking. Our beverage would be a hot coffee, then back to the ship for a shower and hot meal.

Now let's return to the start of the day and see how the group did, as they hotfooted it in a trio of Land Rovers towards Volunteer Point, some 2+ hours away. Well, motoring along the tarmac road was fine. A quick stop at a pool to view breeding White-tufted Grebes right beside the road. Out in the bay we noted many Kelp Goose, lots of Upland Goose and several Falkland Steamer-Ducks. We didn't linger however, as we were eager to maximise our time amongst the penguin colonies so continued on our way, pausing briefly when a flock of White-bridled Finches flew in front of the lead vehicle. And then the tarmac road ended and it was off-roading for the next 90 minutes or so. Uncomfortable doesn't even come close, as we drove across tussocky moorland, pitted with muddy hollows and squelchy grassland. We did flush several Correndera Pipits, had close Rufous-chested Dotterels and a few Ruddy-headed Goose as well. But everything paled into insignificance upon reaching Volunteer Point. Here, you have set parking places and numbers of visitors are strictly controlled. Washing the soles of your boots in disinfectant is required before approaching the penguins and strict mention of timings here must be adhered to. We had two hours, which in Nick's case passed all too quickly. You see I was thoroughly taken with the King Penguins and spent much too long watching them. I took way too many photos, way too much video and spent way too much time just gawping at this long held dream of mine of actually seeing flipping King Penguins. (I'm sure Emperor Penguins are a bit out of my reach now). Anyway, the main King Penguin colony was stunning. The noise defeaning when the males stretched their heads and neck skywards and 'bugled; at the top of their voices. The main colony was or less a massive circle of activity, of toing and froing as birds, usually in small groups of 3 -5 wandered to the ocean and back. As I sat there, maybe 5 metres from them I felt uniquely privileged to be here. I mean, there were King Penguins all around. Some even walking just 4 or 5 feet behind me. It's ok to sit there and let them pass, but some rather annoying tourists seemed oblivious to the disturbance they were potentially causing by trying to take stupid selfies with these wild creatures. Thankfully the wardens do a great job in keeping people in check here!  Just a little further away was a colony of Gentoo Penguins and some Magellanic Penguins at their nesting burrows and a quick walk around this area adjacent to a bay also gave crippling views. With time slipping away, a hurried walk over to the beach saw more King Penguins offering a diferent photographic perspective as they lined up at the shoreline. On the white sandy beach 20+ Two-banded Plovers were present, some were extremely confiding and too close to photograph. Some White-rumped Sandpipers were also ultra close here as well, whilst Brown Skuas patrolled the beach, along with Southern Giant Petrels. And that was it. Time ran out. Over. We had to leave and boy was I reluctant to do so! But the journey back gave us Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant, Austral Thrush and flocks of Black-chinned Siskins at an isolated homestead. Each of our 3 drivers did an excellent job of reciting the history of the Falklands, tales of the locals, the politics and stories from the war. It was fascinating and the journey back seemed a lot quicker. We had fine views of Commerson's Dolphins dashing just offshore in a shallow bay and closer views of the breeding White-tufted Grebes, complete with attendant chicks hitching a ride on their parents backs. Once back in Port Stanley we popped in to one of the local pubs for a pint and to savour the atmosphere of what was a typical British pub this far from home! And what a great finale to a superb day.....

Pulling out of Stanley, irony of ironies we sailed right past Yorke Point. On deck there were just fouof us as commitment to be out on deck immediately wasn’t obligatory, although in hindsight many wished they had. Roberta, one of the four, procuring her coveted wish. Lee muting a scoped white speck to be a Snowy Sheathbill quickly morphed into six. Once verified by Nick, our scopes were vacated over to Jeff and a voluble Roberta. News was disseminated, but alas, despite some lightning-quick reactions their untimely deferral would unwittingly prove their downfall.... But what a day!

CRUISE DAY 10   AT SEA

Back once again to more of the same - seawatching! Coverage, the South Atlantic, the now customary routine, hour after hour entrenched on viewing deck eight from daybreak.

For the early starters, whom were many, we enjoyed several Soft-plumaged Petrels. Those that missed out needn’t have worried, as we had a steady procession of them throughout the day. By the day's end our tally extended comfortably into triple figures, logging an impressive one hundred and thirty-seven. The chronicling highlighted their general abundance in these waters, although who would have predicted so many and more pertinently believe it to be the most abundant seabird of the day. It seemed irrational but proved founded.

Unbelievably, we drew a blank on  Sooty Shearwater. Who would believe an ocean usually clogged with them would not surrender at least one today, it seemed unfathomable but played out that way. How weird. After a five day abstinence it was pleasing to reacquaint with White-chinned Petrels once again, several dozen liberally sprinkled throughout the day, as too Great Shearwaters, a commoner incumbent to these chilly waters. Albatross numbers took a tumble: were it based on poor feeding grounds we ventured through today or the more northerly latitudes we sailed? I suspect the answer, a bit of both. To say we only saw about fifty (only!) is a somewhat puerile statement as any day seeing so many should be treasured, but you know, seeing so many more over the last week or so deadens your senses somewhat I guess. Black-browed Albatross were the mainstay, a single Northern Royal and five Southern Royal Albatross added some much needed variety. A dozen Southern Giant Petrels, four Wilson’s Storm-Petrels, three Brown and two Arctic Skua’s, a lone Manx Shearwater and most weirdy of all, an Eared Dove gives you an indication of how our day went.

The day had had its challenges. At intervals, dormancy. Bouts whereby even seeing a single seabird proved testing. Such periods led to our group to dissipate. One after another falling to the temptations of a fully working cruise ship, using the time to refuel or just conserve energy. For our seawatching bulwark and similarly Yorkshire’s finest, they too finally relented, the last to do so. Managing a little well-earned down time on deck to the merriment of one returning absconder!

CRUISE DAY 11   PUERTO MADRYN, ARGENTINA

Our fifth land excursion today, a day spent in sun basked Puerta Madryn, Argentina. We’d meet our local guide after a rather protracted walk along the piers' thoroughfare with sunhats, sun cream and light clothing very much order of the day. Without ado we all jumped onboard the minibus, whisked away to some unknown destination near the Valdes Peninsula, to dry dusty savannah. We didn’t loiter, cutting our losses we translocated to a nearby stretch of similar habitat, proven to be the right call. A White-throated Cacholote, the endemic we sought, a large and garrulous beast heralded our arrival. No shrinking violet this one. With defiance it belligerently scolded us from atop a nearby bush, no intention of submitting to our unwanted transgression into its domain. We kept our council, staying far enough away as not to antagonise it further, it stridently also held its ground. Who’d blink first, well we did actually, our attention drawn away from it by Rufous Hornero, a perched Southern Martin and nice selection of other hirundines that circled the vicinity.

Our next rendezvous wasn’t long in coming, although before that a quick roadside stop was taken to enjoy a pair of Elegant-crested Tinamou. Our exploration, more dry typical Patagonian savannah, the heat of the day making things much more oppressive. The backdrop, a life sized model of a towering Brontosaurus, yes really, loomed ominously on the horizon. We’d designs on seeing another endemic, Carbonated Sierra-Finch, but they in turn didn’t appear. We’d leave empty handed in that regard, having to console ourselves tussling with some heavy investiture in garnering something more than just a fleeting glimpse of a Sharp-billed Canastero, which we eventually did.

Many, if not all would have rationally predicted the next port of call, or its quarry. Stopping on a dusty minor tract, we quizzically cast an eye over our impoverished surroundings. Underfoot lay cluttered remnants of discarded, decaying cans and broken glass, beyond this a narrow gouged depression. We were motioned forward, congregating at its edge. Taking a scope less than thirty metres away held a day roosting Lesser Horned Owl, a bird already seen on the pre-cruise extension but for a fortunate couple who weren't there a true grip-back, as they say. Leaving here we headed further south, seeing a small group of Burrowing Parakeets fly by.

Next, it was back to urbanisation and Trelew to be precise. Within the cities heart a park with a spacious sprawling lake. Great Kiskadee’s fluttered from tree to tree, another splash of colour, a fine looking Red-crested Cardinal fed nearby. On the ground we’d stand toe to toe with Rufous Hornero,  Chalk-browed Mockingbirds and Picui Ground Doves, all seemingly unperturbed by our presence. Much of our focus though was drawn to the lake, which teemed with life. Lake Ducks, supporting absurd blue bills the most numerous inhabitee’s, within them ten rather more demure Black-headed Ducks, plus a host of commoner wildfowl we’d seen numerous times already. Our pace was rather leisurely, casually walking its perimeter unhurriedly, the heat rather burdensome. Elegant Coscoroba Swans (6) and a few Chilean Flamingo’s (4) were both idling their time relaxing. Both Silvery (3) and White-tufted Grebe (6) by contrast were much more more proactive. We’d round off our visit amidst the shady Eucalypt canopy that resonated boisterously with the sounds of calling Monk Parakeets. Lunch was consumed in the minibus, a fine spread it was too. We moved back to familiar terrain, yes, the Patagonian savannah once again. Although we didn’t throw much time at it, all will fondly allay to its visceral content. The Burrowing Owls were endearing, although taking centre stage was a Pichi Armadillo that canvassed all of the accolades.

Once again we were found chasing time. Our final foray was to a coastal location in our attempt, to cross swords with Chubut Steamer-Duck. A quest that would ultimately prove futile, though not through a lack of effort. Our thirty minute or so brief interjection reasonable lively. Scouting a rather distant gathering of terns yielded amongst the South American Terns a few Royal Terns and about a dozen Cayenne/ Cabot’s Terns (yellow-billed variants). The nearer shoreline privy to about sixty Hudsonian Godwit, a dozen Magellanic Oystercatcher, two American Oystercatcher, a handful of White-rumped Sandpipers and Two-banded Plovers, these now in rather non-descript wintering fatigues.And so it was back to port. Dropped off we said our farewells, walked back along the lengthy pier, joining a moderate queue to board our ship. Bidding us farewell (well probably not), South American Terns. Although we’d seen thousands over the last week or so, none as remotely close as these. They utilised the ships mooring ropes, an improbable if imaginative resource, but we weren’t complaining.

For some the day wasn’t over. Pulling out of Puerta Madryn a few hours of daylight lay at our disposal. The bay held amongst the many terns at least one Royal Tern. Pushing out into deeper waters we did a double take on a small gull, irrefutably a Franklin’s Gull, one you’d not expect locally. Manx Shearwaters were exceedingly common this evening, around eight hundred over two hours some indication of that. Great Shearwaters almost made it into triple figures, whilst we fully expected the odd Black-browed Albatross, tick, eighteen observed. However, it was the skuas which would command much of our attention this evening. So far we’d seen relatively few small skuas on our travels to date, but tonight we boosted that figure by twenty-one. Each was carefully vetted. Both Pomarine and Long-tailed are feasible in these waters, but no such luck for us as all were unquestionably Arctic Skuas.

CRUISE DAY 12   AT SEA

Today would be our final full day at sea, so let’s make it a good one.....

The unquestionable highlight from a full days sailing was immortalised by not the rarest of species in these waters, yet Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross were a sight to behold. On the smaller end of the albatross size spectrum they might not have the same hulking gravitas as congeners like Snowy, Royals or Salvin’s but they are in their own form a very beautiful species, make no mistake. Our first slipped quickly under the radar for many. These things happen but we needn’t fuss. Those who’d missed out were later spoiled as on multiple occasions as many as seven broadsided us (figuratively speaking, not literally), their inclination more giant petrel than albatross, on the grounds of their measured fondness to travel along with the ship for a sustained period of time. Not an hour passed by without us seeing at least one, our tally for the day an estimated thirty four.

Our only large Albatross, a midrange observation of a passing White-capped Albatross, is a very noteworthy sighting and follows a series of sightings of this out-of-range species from early cruise this year..All the others were of course Black-brow’s (50+). Of similar size and structure to the afore mentioned Yellow-nosed Albatross, their characteristic yellow bills are its most redeeming feature in separating the two (there are other features of course), although many a dark billed sub-adult threw some (and on numerous occasions).

Quantity was delivered by the shearwaters with both Manx and Great Shearwaters seen in proportionately large volumes (1500+ for each), some in outlying fish boils, others as a continual procession. During some particularly heavy spells of movement,  chaotic scenes ensued, and I’m not talking just offshore. On three occasions, excitable exclamations of Cory’s Shearwater, and one of Cape Verde Shearwater pierced the airways. Easy-peasy if just tracking a lone seabird, the odds far more challenging when faced by a plethora of other species cascading past at those same moments. Most would see at least one of the Cory’s, reversely the Cape Verde despondently a single observer observation, sacrebleu! For Sooty Shearwaters and White-chinned Petrels, another unobtrusive day, neither able to make it into double figures.

Looking beyond all these, it was tough. Startled by the complete absence of any storm petrels or large Skuas, only two Southern Giant Petrels (four others unidentified), eight Magellanic Penguins, four Arctic Skua and finally, at last, two Long-tailed Skuas permeated what was still a brilliant day.

CRUISE DAY 13   MONTEVIDEO

Overnight, as we slept, the Sapphire Princess pushed on north and by daybreak we found ourselves at the entrance of the mighty River Plate. In the distance, early risers would gain their first glimpse of Uruguay, and Montevideo's towering skyline. The large bay a congested waterway, besieged with ladened cargo ships. As we encroached slowly towards Montevideo amid the throng of Kelp Gulls and South American Terns, several Royal Terns sauntered amongst them. For surprises, it was odd to see a lone Black-necked Swan head inland.

Once berthed we assembled with our accoutrements and once onshore quickly rendezvoused with Florencia, our guide for the day. Our journey through the city and onward to a local nature reserve at Playa Penino a straightforward affair and half an hour later we arrived.

We stood line abreast, scopes at the ready, the first few minutes a frenzy. Scanning the lakes interior quickly rattled off bird after bird, you just didn’t know where to look first. Notables, of which there were many; an extraordinarily handsome drake Silver Duck, dour by direct comparison but a female Ringed Teal added genuine stardust to proceedings, although surreptitiously went under the radar to begin with. A quartering Snowy-crowned Tern held many’s interests, shouts of Green Kingfisher, Striated Heron, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Brown-chested Martin, Cliff Swallow, Picazuro Pigeon, Spot-winged Pigeon had everyone feverishly looking in every which direction. As things calmed the birds didn’t abate. In from the sea came a Black Skimmer, a ten foot high mound of dirt made a great vantage point to observe a shy Giant Wood Rail, the gardens to our rear held a Gilded Emerald, a Rufous-bellied Thrush arrived and promptly disappeared, whilst the lakes bordered vegetation held a Sooty Tyrannulet and Greyish Baywing, and I’m sure had we stayed we would have pulled out many other things as well. But we had a busy schedule. With one eye cast tentatively skyward, motioning darkening brooding skies, today’s forecast of worsening weather didn’t bode well. We might be getting wet soon.

Cracking on, with fingers crossed the weather may relent, we moved to another potentially lucrative area of the reserve. Our directive, a bash at the beach. Before that though running the gauntlet through a vegetated funnelled path no longer than about fifty metres in length. At a leisurely amble it might take but a minute, it didn’t. The thick low lying scrub held so much interest that notions of scanning the beach for now derailed us for the foreseeable future. A small gathering of the comical looking Guira Cuckoo immobilised us, and from that moment on we made little headway. The narrow corridor threw one bird after another at us. I can’t recount the chronology, but in short order we dined on fine views of Green-barred Woodpecker, Southern Yellowthroat, Tropical Kingbird, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, a pair of Rufous-capped Antshrike, Small-billed Elaenia, Variable Oriole and Yellow-winged Blackbird. A fantastic renumeration for such a modest stretch of habitat. By the time we belatedly set foot on the beach, wisps of rain began falling. A party of four very confiding Collared Plovers had our cameras unsheathed. The clatter of thunder, one burst very intense and sensing the inevitability of rain we reigned in our stay, not before determining the presence of a rather distant Spectacled Tyrant, some American Golden Plovers, Hudsonian Godwits and nice flyby flock of eighteen White-faced Ibis. It was a shame we didn’t/ couldn’t give it longer.

Once back in the van we knew we had made the right call, for the heavens opened. We stopped at a roadside petrol station, many purchasing and eating lollies in the rain. Florencia also tempting us with a box of bite sized patisseries. I have no idea what they were, but wow were they delicious, many sneaking back for seconds and indeed thirds. As we moved on the weather deteriorated. Nobody showed any desire to vacate the bus for some Burrowing Owls, we instead watched from the dry environs from where we sat. Soon after we were pulling into the carpark at Parque Costero Alberto Kurz. It wasn’t so much raining, more told still pelting it down, serious, serious rainfall. We remained bus bound and had some enforced downtime, during which time some of us dozed off, allowing others the enjoyment of some payback photos!

As odd as this statement seems, the rain had been a blessing. As now it suddenly eased off and stopped altogether allowing the  whole park to undertake a radical and wonderous transformation. Over the ensuing period, the warming rays cast deliverance on an extraordinary scale. Bristling with birdlife, keen to resume feeding or just dry out we reaped in this bountiful harvest. An inventory logged as follows- Saffron Finches, Grassland Yellow-Finches, Red-crested Cardinals, Double-collared Seedeaters, Chestnut Seedeaters, a Black-and-rufous Warbling Finch, Greyish Baywings, Yellow-billed Blackbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Wedge-tailed Grass Finch, Hooded Siskin, Screaming Cowbird, Creamy-bellied and Rufous-bellied Thrush, Brown-chested Martins, Cattle Tyrant, Great Kiskadee’s, White-crested Tyrannulet, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, Small-billed Elaenia, Spix’s Spinetail, Campo Flicker and Green-barred Woodpecker, phew! An amazing list considering we’d stay rooted to one spot. This innocuous tangle of scrub and outlying fields remarkable in its concentration of birdlife. To follow, we browsed the park itself. A different habitat, so by definition different species lay in store. We walked, we scanned, we walked some more, some making unusual use of the parks amenities. Amongst others we found Chivi Vireo, Tropical Parula, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper and Masked Gnatcatcher.  Heading back to Montevideo, we’d initiate one final sortie at a small wetland. Viewing conditions of the freshwater pond/small lake bordered by tall reeds was, shall we say, decidedly problematic. So finding a Rufous-sided Crake, a congenial one most thankfully, concocted a rudimentary and rather intimate rotation policy of three at a time as Nick gently parted the reeds. And what a bird, in fact there were 3 seen with another one or two calling further away. Result! Nobody would fortunately miss out. We’d add another Green-backed Woodpecker to our day, a few catching a momentary glance of a passing Sharp-shinned Hawk, and everyone was unable to miss the Cattle Tyrant on the walk back too.

Journeying back to port we must give a mention to its musical accompaniment. Spirits high and voluble as we sang and laughed at Nick’s constant barrage of rather eclectic musical foibles. It was altogether priceless. A few kept their council, informed that’s Raymond’s beloved Rangers FC had just lost an important fixture earlier today. Best keep a wide berth from him for now or avoid any dialogue on the subject....

It had been a brilliant day. Our thanks must go out to Florencia. Heavily pregnant she guided with aplomb, at Alberto Kurz Park in particular. Drawn this way and that by hand gesticulations and callouts from our party, with artful efficiency she diligently coordinated events when the birding was at its most industrious. And that was our day, with nearly everyone heading to restaurants and bars for a thoroughly enjoyable evening on board ship as we sailed upriver towards Buenos Aires.

CRUISE DAY 14   COSTANERA SUR, BUENOS AIRES

By sunrise we’d found Sapphire Princess had slipped unobtrusively into Buenos Aires. Moored up you are struck by the immense size and thriving commerce of the capital's port. Soon we found ourselves acquainted with our local guide, Nicolas and we immediately saw a gathering of Nanday Parakeets across the street. What seemed like moments later we had translocated to the city’s largest park, Costanera Sur. The scale of it, as we were to discover is huge as it caters for the needs of many. Our experiences throughout the morning found the park copiously occupied by an unparallelled array of chiselled physiques taken to jogging. Our ageing frames by contrast ballast bearing, unruly BMI’s, no doubt further aggravated over the last few weeks. But fortunately no such physical exertions entered our minds. Our kinetic pace more laissez-faire as opposed to perpetual motion!

Given today was now deep into our tour itinerary, the stimulus or potency of the impending venture might propagate a de-escalation in our intensity. Not on our watch mate. We’d spend the morning exploring just its western boundary, this in itself well in excess of a mile. Our coverage, although nominal, extracting a healthy reposit of fifty-one species. Canvassed through managing our time effectively, exploring differing habitats brought with it a wide range of species, many of which were by now so comfortably familiar to all. A detail that’s invariably simply understated or indeed pondered, yet a ringing endorsement to each group members positive contribution and characterisation of determinable individual progression over the preceding few weeks.

Amidst the raft of now learned feathered entities the day wouldn’t be complete without the infusion of something different. Many in various shapes and sizes, colours and habitats livened up proceedings. Those by definition reliant on the water course still able to extract a profitable return, ducks although rather surprisingly lean in number expectantly held the unmistakeable Rosy-billed Pochard and later on point blank views of an inert Rufescent Tiger Heron, a Limpkin, several Wattled Jacanas, although Southern Screamers left the most indelible impression of all. Extolling as they do in form a rather bizarre, primeval façade and highly voluble as their name infers. Arboreal treats came in the form of White-eyed Parakeet, a pair of White-winged Becards, Streaked Flycatcher, a Golden-billed Saltator, while nobody objected to further rations of Double-collared Seedeater, Black & Rufous Warbling-Finch, Tropical Parula, Chivi Vireo, Small-billed Elaenia, Checkered & Green-barred Woodpeckers & Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, to name check a few. Potentially bird of the day went to a Dusky-legged Guan seen well by some of the group.

And that was the end of birding during our Epic Cape Horn Cruise. By lunchtime we were back onboard Sapphire Princess and a unanimous decision was taken to spend the afternoon taking advantage of the facilities around the ship. One final dinner together tonight was really fun and a few too many drinks were involved. It had been a fun, relaxed trip so far and a rather unique experience. We'd say goodbye to a few people tonight, with the majority heading north to Ceibas early doors tomorrow.

 POST-CRUISE  EXTENSION TO CEIBAS

Well, what can you say about Ceibas? It's simply amazing, awesome, superb and any other superlative you can think of. Our almost 3 days here turned up some of the most mouth-watering birding of our entire South American adventure, and that's saying something. So, after leaving our floating home for the previous 2 weeks we met up with our excellent local guide, Nicolas and drove north out of Buenos Aires to Ceibas. As we approached the lodge we would be spending the next couple of nights in, it was apparent the area had been subjected to a high amount of rainfall and the wetlands that last year were dry, were now flooded and full of birds. I mean, we nailed Ringed Teal easily - a much-wanted bird for everyone and a species that last year we had to really work hard to find. Amazingly, it seemed that every pool, pond, lake and watercourse had their own pair of these stunning wildfowl. Wow! 

Our routine here would be a resonably early (but not too early) breakfast, followed by short drives out into the surrounding area where we would target some very special birds. And on our return we'd be treated to fabulous meals, washed down with wine and beer that was all included! Very dangerous for some, I can tell you! Birding right in the garden and immediate vicinity would give us incredible views of Plumbeous Rail, hulking Giant Wood-Rails, White-fronted Woodpecker, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher, Red-crested Cardinal, Sayaca Tanager, Variable Oriole, Pampa Finch, Greyish Baywing, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird, 

Out in the surrounding prairie and marshes we came upon such delights as, Black-necked Swan, Rosy-billed Pochard, White-tailed Hawk, a pair of fine Ash-coloured Cuckoo, Dark-billed Cuckoo, Tufted Tit-Spinetail, stunning Brown Cachalote, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Masked Gnatcatcher, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellowish Pipit, Hooded Siskin, White-browed Blackbird, 

Going a bit further afield enabled us to see skulking Spotted Nothura,  the stunning White Monjita, as well as Greater Rhea, Guira Cuckoo, White-barred Piculet, Little & Freckle-breasted Thornbirds, the huge Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, Firewood Gatherer, the fantastic Lark-like Brushrunner, Sooty-fronted, Chotoy & Yellow-chinned Spinetails, Short-billed Canastero, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Suiriri & Bran-coloured Flycatchers,  

A supporting cast included Coscoroba Swan, Crested & Chimango Caracaras, Green-barred Woodpecker, Saffron Finch, our only Screaming Cowbirds of the trip, Burrowing Owl, Monk Parakeet, Grey-breasted & Brown-chested Martins, White-crested Tyrannulet, Yellow-browed Tyrant, White-rumped Swallow, Wren-like Rushbird, Southern Yellowthroat, Yellow-winged & Chestnut-capped Blackbirds, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Greyish Baywing, Golden-billed Saltator, Double-collared Seedeater and Grassland Yellow Finch.

But this year the sheer size and scale of some of the wetlands bristling with thousands of birds was quite probably the most distinctive memory we took from our visit here. The skies were full of birds and a constant toing and froing of Snail Kites & Savannah Hawks, Long-winged Harrier, with hundred upon hundred of egrets flying past, Whistling Herons, flocks of Bare-faced & White-faced Ibis, lots of Wood Storks, Maguari Storks everywhere you looked, noisy Limpkins, groups of American Golden Plovers, Lesser Yellowlegs, a single Buff-breasted Sandpiper for some, noisy Southern Lapwings, dainty Wattled Jacanas picking their way across ponds choked with lily pads, a flock of 50+ Nacunda Nighthawks flying around in the daytime, flocks of White-faced & Fulvous Whistling-Ducks, numerous Red Shovelers, White-cheeked & Yellow-billed Pintails, Ringed Teals, Silver Teal, Brazilian Teal, Red-fronted, Red-gartered & White-winged Coots, and we'll never forget the noise from the multitude of Southern Screamers that were seemingly everywhere we went! Phew!!

Our last afternoon as we reluctantly said goodbye to the wonderful lodge Rio de las Aves, we made one final stop at another wetland. The habitat was a little different here, with tall sedges and narrow channels and it was here that we managed to see a skulking Curve-billed Reedhaunter despite the excessive heat. A Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch showed well, a Rufous Hornero was more familiar and a Roadside Hawk brought this totally amazing South American adventure to a close. All that remained was to return to Buenos Aires, check in to a city centre hotel and have one final, and very filling dinner together before our return flights to Europe the following day.

We would like to thank everyone for their contribution during the course of this tour, for their good humour, fun and patience.

Can't wait to see you all again,

Nick & Lee